A Classic Italian Wine Returns to its Glory
Have you ever had a wine that was so light you felt it might float away – and a red wine, at that? No? Not surprised, as I can’t remember the last time this happened to me. Until the other day, when I tasted the wines of Tenuta Cucco, a historic winery located in the Barolo region of Piedmont, in Northern Italy.
I truly felt like the wines might lift off the table — unless, perhaps, they were anchored by food. When those of us on a zoom call with Tenuta Cucco’s winemakers asked if they would recommend any food pairings, the Italians seemed mystified. Of course their wines are made to accompany food! That’s the whole point of wine: it’s part of a meal.
Well, my first tastes of Barolos occurred some years ago, when it was fashionable for producers to throw the wines into small barrels made of French oak, giving the wines a heavy dose of wood influence. This means increased tannins, altered structure, and some vanillin overtones, all of which can override natural fruit, aromas and structure in a grape. For some wines, this is an appropriate augmentation. For others, not so much. So I just thought of Barolo as another type of medium red wine from Northern Italy. I didn’t understand why wine writers who were older and more experienced than me were charmed by the ethereal qualities of Barolo. Until now.
It seems Barolo winemakers have now returned to their roots: delicately enhancing the structure, aromas and flavors of the Nebbiolo grape by nurturing it through appropriate production and ageing techniques. In addition, it doesn’t hurt that in recent years, practically every square meter of vineyard land in the Barolo region has been analyzed for its soil properties and weather influences.
Which brings us to Tenuta Cucco, located in the prime Barolo district of Serralunga d’Alba. In 2015, this winery was acquired by a farming family called Rossi Cairo, and they immediately began work for organic certification of the vineyards, which came in 2018. See LINK
The family also resurrected labelling wine from the micro district of Cerrati. Among the rest of their vineyards (which date from the 17th century) they found they had enough vines growing there to produce two distinctive Barolo DOCG Cerrati wines.
Foods to pair the wines with? Glad you asked. Look for umami components: rich cheeses, onion soup, seared tuna, Risotto Milanese with saffron, pasta in cheese sauce, gratin of winter squash or cauliflower.
TASTING NOTES
2020 Tenuta Cucco Barolo DOCG Cerrati was my top pick of the four wines I tasted. It has a complex, floral aroma with cocoa notes. It is more full-bodied than the others, more powerful. Yet the body and palate are light with mature red and black fruit, especially plum, showing through to the end. Aged in Slavonian oak, which is a more neutral-influencing wood, the result is a deeper, more authentic Barolo wine.
2020 Tenuta Cucco Barolo DOCG Bricco Voghera is also aged in Slavonian oak, allowing the flavors and aromas of the grape to show through. This is a deep dive into woody herbs and dried flowers in the aroma, with a mature component throughout the flavors too. The wine feels fresh, a medium light body, good acidity on the palate and smooth tannins.
2020 Tenuta Cucco Barolo DOCG Serralunga d’Alba is aged in a combination of very large (more neutral) oak barrels from France, Austria and Slavonia. It also has cocoa notes in the aroma. The wine is light, lifted, and classic, a wonderful representation of place in texture and taste.
2023 Tenuta Cucco Langhe DOCG Nebbiolo is the youngest of the wines I tasted. It is extremely light in feel, with mild tannins, having had little grape-skin contact during fermentation. Ageing is only in stainless steel. The grapes are selected from a variety of locations on the estate. This wine shines brightly with food. My choice for lunch was beef-vegetable soup: delightful.
