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Best of 2017: The 7-Year Niche

Roger Morris
Features
4 min read
Readers of a certain age will remember Orson Welles assuring us in a 1979 TV commercial for Paul Masson – preserved on YouTube – that “we will sell no wine before its time.” But what is a wine’s time, especially a tannic red one?  When is it ready? Not surprisingly,

The Sauternes Dilemma

Roger Morris
Feature Stories
6 min read
Sauternes has a problem. And the fact that Sauternes’ problem is not unique among businesses in a constantly changing world, nor even unique among wine regions, doesn’t make the difficulty any less painful. Nor has the problem just raised its head, as it’s been growing for some time now. It’s

The 7-Year Niche

Roger Morris
Features
4 min read
Readers of a certain age will remember Orson Welles assuring us in a 1979 TV commercial for Paul Masson – preserved on YouTube – that “we will sell no wine before its time.” But what is a wine’s time, especially a tannic red one?  When is it ready? Not surprisingly,

Beyond Bordeaux in Hong Kong

David Rogers
Features
5 min read
Hong Kong. A city of more than 7 million people shoehorned into a small parcel of land on China’s southeastern coast. This is an Asian city with a growing Western influence, with food and drink a central cultural tenet. Despite a rapid growth in middle-class incomes since the mid-1990s, the

Second wines deserve a second look

Roger Morris
Feature Stories
3 min read
It was a great summer for drinking second wines. During Vinexpo in June, there was the vibrant 2014 Fleur de Pédseclaux, sampled from the barrel at the reawakened château’s dazzling new winery in Pauillac, just across the road from the Rothschilds.  Then there was Silvio Nardi’s Rosso di Montalcino at a dinner

Uncorking wine fraud without opening the bottle

Erika Szymanski
Features
6 min read
No one in this post-Rudy Kurniawan, post-fake Chinese Lafite wine world can remain ignorant about wine fraud. After decades of more or less ignoring the problem, lately it’s been all hands on deck. Legal authorities are systematizing how to punish offenders. Engineers are devising clever systems for keeping track of

For Lovers of Aged Bordeaux, an Opening

Evan Dawson
Feature Stories
5 min read
But is it a door, or just a window? Modern winemaking can do all kinds of neat tricks. Soften the tannins and make even Barolo more approachable in its relative youth? We can do that. Manipulate the acids to save a white wine that would otherwise taste like an electric