In his February column, Blake Gray explained why the gradual extinction of some wine styles is not always a tragedy. Today I take pleasure in upending one of the most common wine story tropes: the "disappearing underappreciated wine" story. These stories play the emotions like a zither: loss, urgency to
Kermit Lynch once described a wine he imported as "a mouth rinse." He meant it as praise. I saw this a decade ago and have never forgotten it. Nobody speaks well of simplicity in wine. It doesn't matter which side of the power vs. elegance debate you're on. Power fans
Is there a "right" way to drink wine? I'm not sure. But there are wrong ways. Some might want to deny this because we don't want to be exposed as wine snobs. But the prevailing American culture around wine is far more prescriptive than that. The food media constantly tells
Are millennials illiterate? Uninterested in where wine comes from? Or are they wine's Greatest Generation? My working assumption has been the latter: that people in their 20s are willing to spend money on wines from anywhere, and are more concerned with drinking something interesting than impressing their peers. But
Update: Read Charles Olken's response: "Wine List Snobbism: Real or Made Up by 'Old Guys'?" "Hipster sommeliers." "Dim somms." Oh no! Arrogant youngsters are forcing helpless diners to consume weird wines! Save us from this horrible trend! This is one of the top memes for ancient wine writers this summer. It's also
To understand wine in Ontario, Canada, you just need to look at two maps.First, let me answer what everybody outside Canada is asking: Why should you care? There are some world-class wines being made in Ontario that you can buy from wine shops in New York and have shipped anywhere
One of the main statistical canards about wine is that smaller yields equal better quality. This is so widely believed in Europe that wine seminars become predictable. If a winemaker is on a podium talking about a wine, the first question is never about philosophy or intention, but "What was
Blind tasting is an artificial experience. Consumers don't taste wines blind, except as a game. If you really want to enjoy a glass of wine, you need to know what it is. Where it came from. Who made it. Its story. But blind tasting is essential for critics. It's the