Leo Hillinger is a producer in Burgenland boasting a sleek, new modern winemaking and tasting facility built with many sustainable and green design features. Vineyard management is all organic, with only biological interventions and pest management practices when required. I’ve enjoyed their Pinot Noir, which is herbaceous and has distinct earthy notes of red beets, similar to true Burgundy. This unoaked Zweigelt had a sharp, peppery nose, although I found the palate slightly too herbaceous—more green pepper than black pepper, in other words—and a bit tannic. It perhaps needs a little age to unwind, but nonetheless felt promising. Recommended with reservation. 86. Meg Houston Maker
WHO: Leo Hillinger
WHAT: Zweigelt
WHERE: Austria, Burgenland
WHEN: 2009
HOW MUCH: $18 (media sample)
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