2001 Von Hövel Oberemmeler Hütte Riesling Spätlese

The best spatlese I have ever had, dwarfing even the J.J. Prum from the same vintage. A buzz saw of gorge water and river rocks only amplifies the unfolding layers of fruit and spice. Caramel apple and lemon curd melt into a finish that then delivers a gorgeous, clear note of macadamia nut cookie. This is like a spat that robs from the best of kab, spat, and auslesen. (E.D.)

WHO Von Hövel
WHAT Riesling
WHERE Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
WHEN 2001
HOW MUCH $28


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