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Il Dimenticato: Piedmont’s New White Star Has a Mysterious and Forgotten Past

A thick tome, 132 years old, has survived to tell the story of Piedmont's grape-growing past. That is, if you can decipher the flowery penmanship and wade through the anachronistic turns of phrase. There, in a section on grape varieties in the book called “Wine Production and Oenology in the Province of Cuneo, 1879”, lies both the question and, perhaps, the answer to one of the region's great mysteries.
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Palate Press Wine of the Week: 1999 Pommery Grand Cru Brut Millesime

In the glass, there’s a profusion of very small bubbles. Aroma opens with light notes of yeast and agar, a hint of toast, later becoming toastier, almost caramelized. The first sip is raspberry and lemon. A creamy mouthfeel gives way to a combination of fruit and tartness on the palate it takes to the finish line—a long finish that in the end becomes citric, bone dry. Highly recommended. BSE
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1999 Pommery Grand Cru Brut Millesime

In the glass, there’s a profusion of very small bubbles. Aroma opens with light notes of yeast and agar, a hint of toast, later becoming toastier, almost caramelized. The first sip is raspberry and lemon. A creamy mouthfeel gives way to a combination of fruit and tartness on the palate it takes to the finish line—a long finish that in the end becomes citric, bone dry. Highly recommended. BSE
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2010 Rooster Hill Estate Medium Sweet Riesling

Clear, medium intensity straw yellow. Medium-light aromas of yellow apple, apricot, fresh pear, light florals, and candied lemon. Semi-sweet on the palate with medium-low acidity, medium body and flavors of apple, peach, pear, and honey. A light finish. Not “elegant” like the bottle claims, but true to the variety and easy to drink. Pair with pulled pork or orange chicken. Recommended. RR
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2010 Fulkerson Riesling-Traminette

Not a wine that accurately represents the strengths of New York or the Finger Lakes. Clear, medium-low intensity straw yellow. Medium intensity aromas of orange, pungent white florals, over ripened melon, musk, and fragrance often associated with wheat beer. Dry on the palate, with extremely low acidity. Medium flavors of artificial citrus, stone fruit pit, and that same wheat beer taste. No finish. This wine may have benefited from a little residual sugar to add character, though the lack of acidity and absence varietal characteristics make it uninteresting. Not recommended. RR