2004 Domaine Leflaive Mâcon-Verzé, France

There is a solid chalky streak along a touch of brine up front, under a mild butterscotch flavor. The butterscotch gives way to lemon on the midpalate. The finish falls off quickly, but at this price point that is not a surprise. Tasted blind this is pretty good. Weighted for QPR, it is very good.

2006 Domaine William Fèvre Bougros Grand Cru Chablis

Fresh fields of flowers in the aroma, almost sauvignon blanc-like. A big wine, big flavors with both light fruit and maturity in the body. Light acid in a finish that ends buttery and lemony. 13% alcohol.

2006 Olivier Leflaive Première Cru Montee de Tonnerre Chablis

An aroma of fresh fields, herbs and wildflowers. A light-medium body, smooth on the tongue, with a touch of spice. Nicely balanced with a sizeable finish. And only 13% alcohol.

2007 Domaine le Verger Chablis

Having visited Burgundy in the summer of this “difficult year”–rainy and cold; wore all my sweaters plus raincoat every day–I was curious to see what had been produced in Chablis. This wine has a sweet, fruity nose with a hint of tropical fruits, barely ripened. A light but pleasant body, and medium lemony acid in the finish. It took some time to settle down in the glass; better the next day. Bonus: only 12:5% alcohol.

2008 Domaine Bernard Defaix Petit Chablis

A lightly earthy aroma, more grape than tropical fruit. On the tongue, a touch of sweet fruit, with fruit in the finish too, along with some light, citric acidity. Pleasantly easy to drink. Asks for smoked seafood! Low alcohol at 12.5%!

Brett in Whites

Two winemakers have their noses buried in white Burgundy. One says: “Brett?” Other says: “Bet!” Who won, and why does it matter?