2006 Domaine William Fèvre Bougros Grand Cru Chablis

Fresh fields of flowers in the aroma, almost sauvignon blanc-like. A big wine, big flavors with both light fruit and maturity in the body. Light acid in a finish that ends buttery and lemony. 13% alcohol.

2006 Olivier Leflaive Première Cru Montee de Tonnerre Chablis

An aroma of fresh fields, herbs and wildflowers. A light-medium body, smooth on the tongue, with a touch of spice. Nicely balanced with a sizeable finish. And only 13% alcohol.

2007 Domaine le Verger Chablis

Having visited Burgundy in the summer of this “difficult year”–rainy and cold; wore all my sweaters plus raincoat every day–I was curious to see what had been produced in Chablis. This wine has a sweet, fruity nose with a hint of tropical fruits, barely ripened. A light but pleasant body, and medium lemony acid in the finish. It took some time to settle down in the glass; better the next day. Bonus: only 12:5% alcohol.

2008 Domaine Bernard Defaix Petit Chablis

A lightly earthy aroma, more grape than tropical fruit. On the tongue, a touch of sweet fruit, with fruit in the finish too, along with some light, citric acidity. Pleasantly easy to drink. Asks for smoked seafood! Low alcohol at 12.5%!

Brett in Whites

Two winemakers have their noses buried in white Burgundy. One says: “Brett?” Other says: “Bet!” Who won, and why does it matter?