Celestino Gaspari, the late Giuseppe Quintarelli’s son-in-law, was also seen as his heir apparent in the winery, before he struck on his own and openend Zymé, his own estate, in 2003. One can imagine that the obligatory reference to the former master of the Veneto will fade away with time, if the wines are all as good as his 2007 Valpolicella Classico Superiore. Precise, remarkably balanced and complex, this is not a light pizza wine with simple tart cherry flavors. Think of it more as an Amarone without the partial drying of grapes. It has the dried cherry, spice and tobacco profile that one would expect from an Amarone, but with the freshness and friendly fruitiness of a Valpolicella – all that with a depth and length that is truly remarkable. Better yet, it kept improving over four days after opening, hinting that this bottle could keep going for a good number of years. Highly recommended. RC.
The dominant grape in Valpolicella, Corvina becomes a better-than-average table wine from Sartori di Verona. The winery, located in northeastern Italy, gives this wine an ample dose of oak at 12-24 months but the tannins and finish remain smooth. There is a lovely hint of cherry on the palate which evolves to sour cherry on the finish. It is a medium-bodied wine that comes in at 13.5% alcohol. Pair with simple pasta dishes, pizza, or mild stews.
Imagine a tropical sea: its waters are warm, not very deep. Around it the landscape is lush with tropical plants and prehistoric animals. Occasionally a simmering underwater volcano stirs the calm surface.
Venice, Italy, recently played host to Italy's Gusto in Scena—Good Taste on the Scene. The event, the brainchild of journalist Marcello Coronini, is the first show in Europe to combine three events in one: Chef in Concerto (Chefs in Concert), a gastronomic congress for top chefs; I Magnifici Vini (Magnificent Wines), an international wine tasting; and Seduzioni di Gola (Seductions of the Palate), an exhibition devoted to Italian delicacies.