Amidst the discussion among wine writers on just how much “natural wines” should be included in wine lists, I am flipping through a 50-page wine list in one of Siena, Italy’s more renowned osterias. Little natural wine is in sight here.
Acids are high, with drying tannins to match. Recommended (88).
It shines as a first course wine with deep, pleasing fruit. Highly Recommended (90-92).
This is still a very young wine, softening and adding layers hours after popping the cork. Decant this with lead time and enthusiastic splashing. Otherwise, it will disappoint when first opened, showing a tart to the point of puckering, tannic enough to make the mouth an arid desert. Three hours later, the cabernet aromas and flavors are shining through, with blackcurrant, black berry, leather, and a touch of tar, along with very pretty violet florals. It remains tight and high-toned after several hours of air. Save for at least another five years, though ten is recommended. Drink with a well-marbled ribeye steak. Highly Recommended. DH