This is an interesting wine, a blend of the Burgundian and the New World. The nose offers up cherries surrounded by wafting odors of mushrooms and scorched stone. The palate is a similar blend of red fruit, tart cherries and cranberry, with mushrooms not washed quite clean of black earth, river rocks charred with a torch until they crack, and a hint of smoked meat. Think Volnay in a forest fire. Drink with smoked duck.
It is almost Burgundian, rather like a light Pommard. Nose of earth, cedar, and lingonberry. Opens up on the palate with vibrant flavors of dark cherry. Finishes a tad short, but still a superior Pinot Noir—far, far better than a lot of the insipid wines touted as “good Pinot.” Great with lamb.
Less than a hundred feet away from my desk a handful of young Frontenac and St. Croix vines are entering their third year here in Salt Lake City, and maybe they aren’t the only ones around. A few industrious pioneers and forward-thinking visionaries are betting blood, sweat, and acres on a ridiculous proposition: to create an authentically American, native grape capable of transforming the wine world.