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Sicilia en Primeur

Last time I was in Sicily, there was great excitement in the local wine community about the creation of the island’s first DOCG, its first highly denominated wine classification (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita). Amongst the rest of us, there was a bit of puzzlement. The new DOCG would define a traditional, blended wine from the southwest corner of this triangular island, a fairly obscure wine from an international perspective: Cerasuolo di Vittoria.
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2008 Frescobaldi Rèmole

An everyday Tuscan Frescobaldi. Benefits from air, so open an hour before dinner, or swirl a lot in the glass at first. Pleasant, mild aroma with notes of cherry and caramelized fruit, opening to plumminess in the flavor. Not super-fruity—a touch restrained, with tannins adding structure. As the label says, best with stronger foods; I liked it with slivers of Romano cheese.