Two years ago I happened upon a terrific story about a post-Communist comeback, of a family reclaiming its heritage after a Marxist dictator took it away. I'm sorry it took me so long to tell it, but better late than never.
The color is the first thing to notice, a bright rich 18k gold. The nose is sweet and floral, hibiscus with apricot and honey. Layer after layer of flavor dance across the palate, all varying variations of apricot and honey, with a bright acidic backbone ranging from sweet Key Lime juice to tart Key Lime zest. Hints of mango linger throughout, though teasing, barely identifiable. It is hard to clock the length of the finish as the desire for the next sip overruns the attempt to measure the finish. Suffice to say, it is incredibly long. Drink with foie gras for the classic match, but it would be even better with Kung Pao from Lucky Strike in Portland, the sweet a counter-balance to the spice. Very Highly Recommended. DH
This wine has aromas of hay, straw, and a pleasant, yeasty, light fruit and floral suggestion, like flowers in a haymow. After a lighting attack of sweetness on the palate, the wine turns dry, and the body grows toward medium weight. Still, I think I detect a hint of oxidation in the character of the wine. It has a big finish, not bone dry, but then I don’t think this wine should be bone dry. It pairs nicely with light main courses such as chicken and lakefish; in my memories I drink it with sautéed native Zander fish. Recommended.