Palate Press Wine of the Week – 1997 Château Haut-Brion

Tasted with 1997 Cheval Blanc, Château Margaux, and Mouton-Rothschild, the Haut-Brion clearly stood out as the most balanced and complex of this fine lot. Minerality was remarkable. Wet gravel and scorched earth formed the base for red currant, sweet wood, and smoked meat flavors. Tobacco and mint added counterpoints to the mild fruit flavors, clearly giving way to the secondary flavors of a mature Bordeaux. This is ready now and in this down ‘97 vintage unlikely to improve with additional age. If you are in New York, take it to Keen’s, order the Mutton Chop, and pay the corkage fee. Don’t forget to offer a taste to your waiter (and the envious wine steward).

1997 Château Haut-Brion – Graves AOC, France

Tasted with 1997 Cheval Blanc, Château Margaux, and Mouton-Rothschild, the Haut-Brion clearly stood out as the most balanced and complex of this fine lot. Minerality was remarkable. Wet gravel and scorched earth formed the base for red currant, sweet wood, and smoked meat flavors. Tobacco and mint added counterpoints to the mild fruit flavors, clearly giving way to the secondary flavors of a mature Bordeaux. This is ready now and in this down ‘97 vintage unlikely to improve with additional age. If you are in New York, take it to Keen’s, order the Mutton Chop, and pay the corkage fee. Don’t forget to offer a taste to your waiter (and the envious wine steward).

The Next Generation of Rhône Rangers

For three days every May, winemakers and wine enthusiasts gather in Paso Robles, California, for the largest international celebration of Rhône wines in the world. Now in its nineteenth year, the Hospice du Rhône’s seminars, exhibits, and large- scale wine tastings attract throngs of eager attendees.

An Education in Wine and Relationships

It took me a few days to get everything out of our Brooklyn apartment and into my parents’ house in New Jersey. I packed my clothes and shoes, and the wine I had brought back from France three months earlier. The break-up, while rooted in the simple fact that my now ex-fiancé and I did not like each other, still seemed sudden.

2008 Colombelle Blanc Vin de Pays des Cotes de Gascogne

Lightly floral, fruity aroma and flavor, a pleasant minerality expands in the mouth. Later, orange essence comes to mind.

2003 Château Cambon La Pelouse – Haut-Médoc, France

Like several for the moderately-priced bottles of ’03 Bordeaux I have opened recently, this is coming to life, perhaps even peaking now. A year ago it was dead, but now it is showing a pleasant balance of fruit, blackberry and some raspberry, and more aged flavors of violets and cigar box. Tannins are soft and smooth. This has matured into a very pleasant bottle of wine at a bargain price, drinking at its peak right now. Highly recommended as a bargain introduction to a great year for Bordeaux.

Getting Ready for the Lagrézette challenge and International Malbec Days

On the left, a glass of 2007 Zuccardi Q Mendoza Malbec. On the right, a glass of 2004 Château Lagrézette Cahors—also a Malbec. The Zuccardi is fruitier, with slightly jammy overtones and good structure (though the acidity seems a little out of place), while the Cahors has an earthier, more brooding presence with more substantial, velvety tannins and great length.

NV Jean Laurent Champagne, Blanc de Noirs Brut

This is a lovely glass of bubbles. When first opened it displayed a lot of lemon flavors, but after just a few minutes it showed far more complexity and depth. There was lightly yeasty well-browned toast, almonds, loads of pears and apples, pineapple and the original lemon coming through late. The finish is 20-30 seconds or more. Disgorgement date July 2008.

NV Domaine des Baumard Carte Turquoise Crémant de Loire

Clear, pale to medium-light yellow color. Clean, grassy, herbal aromatics up front. Green pepper—definitely indicative of the Cabernet Franc. Dry, medium acidity, medium body, and medium-light mousse. More green pepper and vegetal flavors balanced with some grapefruit/citrus and creamy, yeasty textures. Read more wine reviews on my blog, oe•no•phile.

2008 Domaine André Neveu Sancerre Rosé

Pale, clear, salmon pink with some golden tinges. Clean, grass, banana—carbonic maceration is used in Sancerre to produce rosés—tropical fruit, grapefruit, fresh, apple, pear, tangerine. Dry, medium-light body, medium acidity, pear, apple, lemon, strawberry, cherry, soft red fruit and a medium finish. Read more wine reviews on my blog, oe•no•phile.

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