In his February column, Blake Gray explained why the gradual extinction of some wine styles is not always a tragedy.
Today I take pleasure in upending one of the most common wine story tropes: the "disappearing underappreciated wine" story. These stories play the emotions like a zither: loss, urgency to act, the opportunit...
A stunner at this price. Highly Recommended (91-93).
The color is the first thing to notice, a bright rich 18k gold. The nose is sweet and floral, hibiscus with apricot and honey. Layer after layer of flavor dance across the palate, all varying variations of apricot and honey, with a bright acidic backbone ranging from sweet Key Lime juice to tart Key Lime zest. Hints of mango linger throughout, though teasing, barely identifiable. It is hard to clock the length of the finish as the desire for the next sip overruns the attempt to measure the finish. Suffice to say, it is incredibly long. Drink with foie gras for the classic match, but it would be even better with Kung Pao from Lucky Strike in Portland, the sweet a counter-balance to the spice. Very Highly Recommended. DH
Sweet white- 80% Semillon, 20% Sauvignon Blanc, aged in 33% new oak for 18 months. Very high fruit and bright acids, with sweet stone fruits, peach, nectarine, and sweet pink grapefruit. Quite young, this will settle down with cellar time into something lovely. Highly recommended.
The capsule was intact, fill level good, firm cork, and there was no trouble opening the bottle. The cork initially smelled like ancient, wet wood, then dried out to echo the wine’s aromas. The wine poured like honey, caramel gold in the glass. At first it really had no aroma. It tasted of dates and prunes, with plenty of acidity. It was typically developed for a Sauterne, even a touch woody, almost maderized. An hour later, aromas were more prevalent and the wine was still rich, finishing with dried apricot flavors. With food—haricots verts with shallots—it matches like an older Riesling. It tasted sweeter against a fairly plain, sautéed shrimp dish. Still later, as flavors lightened toward the front palate, the finish lengthened. The next morning, I tasted the bit I preserved in the bottom of a glass, and the wine remained just as vibrant. Unfortunately (sigh!) a small swallow is all that’s left. Enough for breakfast, I guess.