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2009 Domaine Debray Bourgogne Hautes Côtes-de-Beaune

A true low-alcohol Bourgogne for half the price of a tooth-staining California pinot, this shows true balance and minerality. Strawberries, some raspberries, and damp black earth shoveled over hot coals show on the nose. On the palate the fruit is more muted, hinting at a dumb phase calling for a couple of years in the cellar. Raspberries and strawberries, in that order, still show, but they have equal billing with smoky earth and leafy spices, sage and marjoram. The taste of fresh-licked river stone comes out with bright acids and cranberry on the finish. There is a lot of complexity here, particularly for the price, and it should reward patience in the cellar. Drink with pork loin. Recommended. DH
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2009 Domaine Poulleau Pére & Files Côte de Beaune Les Mondes Rondes

Sweet cherries and funk on the nose. On the palate, rhubarb, cherries, and brown sugar lead. Strawberries and sage, with a light background of anise, appear on the mid-palate. Sage, mixed red fruits, vanilla, and brown sugar linger on a mid-length finish. Acids are high, tannins very smooth, together offering a wine for the cellar. All the different flavors are interesting, but they are disjointed, even conflicting. This may be a wine best judged a decade after bottling. It could be very nice, based upon promise, high acidity, smooth tannins, and depth of flavor. Drink with sage-rubbed pork loin.