Palate Press Wine of the Week: 2007 Clos LaChance Pinot Noir

Pinot noir can presented in a hundred different ways, depending upon clone, terroir, and the decisions of the winemaker. In this case, a small mountain vineyard, low yields, and 45% new French oak, and wine bottled unfined and unfiltered created a glass of silk, flavored with cherries, dried strawberries, cola, and a bit of suede. The wood has a complimentary, rather than obtrusive, effect, contributing to sweet tannins and adding a touch, just a touch, of vanilla. Drink it with pork loin.

2007 Clos LaChance Pinot Noir, Biagini Vineyard – Santa Cruz, CA

Pinot noir can presented in a hundred different ways, depending upon clone, terroir, and the decisions of the winemaker. In this case, a small mountain vineyard, low yields, and 45% new French oak, and wine bottled unfined and unfiltered created a glass of silk, flavored with cherries, dried strawberries, cola, and a bit of suede. The wood has a complimentary, rather than obtrusive, effect, contributing to sweet tannins and adding a touch, just a touch, of vanilla. Drink it with pork loin.

2007 Waboomsrivier Pinotage – Western Cape

I don’t generally enjoy Pinotage, and this is very good wine. The typical Pinotage burnt rubber is nowhere to be found. Instead, it is a very nice glass of sweet toasty black fruit. Wood is obvious but not overwhelming. Instead, it adds a light background of sweet wood-burned maple to plums, boysenberry, and blueberry. This is a good food wine, too, for the sweet wood and fruit are balanced by acids that will happily complement well-marbled beef. Drink this with a big Ribeye and some creamed spinach.

2007 Celler de Capçanes Mas Donís Barrica – Montsant

A pleasant and interesting wine, leading with plum, raspberry, cranberry, and spicy hints of cayenne and thyme. Light tannins and acids are there in good balance. The mid-palate is lacking, dropping from attack to simpler one-dimensional juice, but retaining the peppery pop. It’s a good burger and fries wine but a ribeye would knock it out in the first round.

2007 Domaine de Montcy Cheverny – Loire Valley

Standing alone this is thin and slightly sour, but as a food wine it comes into its own. It has some light red juiciness and a touch of licorice, but the unique and surprising flavor is a sea-spray saltiness. For many this will be a curiosity, and for some it will be a treat. Pair it with dry-rubbed barbecue on a hot afternoon.

2007 Francis Ford Coppola Director’s Cut Zinfandel – Dry Creek Valley

Very juicy wine up front, offering up loads of blueberry, plum, and some prune, along with some coffee on the mid-palate. There are some obvious wood tones, cedar and spice. Unfortunately, it is less than the sum of its parts, disjointed and unbalanced. The fruit is too jammy, the coffee too bitter, the finish too sudden and short. It is reasonably priced and might work with heavily sauced barbecue toward the end of the summer, but it is not terribly special.

2007 Bouchaine Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir – Napa Valley

Relatively dark in color, not quite opaque. Flavors are overwhelmingly tart red fruit, barely ripe cherries, wild strawberries, and lots of rhubarb. Sweet wood is there, but barely perceptible behind the tartness. Finish is mid-length, tannins slightly drying. A rich food match might pair well, so try it with a well-sauced duck.

2007 Shale Peak Barbera – Suisun Valley

This was packed with caramel and pepper but its vague fruit and soft structure made it seem a bit syrupy and possibly heat damaged. The green notes made it very awkward.

Palate Press Wine of the Week – 2007 DeLille Cellars Harrison Hill

The Harrison Hill was the top of the heap for me in our DeLille tasting (with the Doyenne and Chaleur Blanc close behind). Big and dark and tannic and complex, with a finish that lasted well into each next taste. A bit pricey at $75 a bottle, but this one I think is worth it. Read more on RJ’s Wine Blog.

2007 DeLille Cellars Chaleur Estate – Red Mountain, WA

Like the 2007 Harrison Hill, the tannins are huge on this wine. Black fruit, herb, and vanilla notes, it’s definitely a mouthful, but still incredibly well balanced. The finish on this thing goes on forever. I would suggest decanting for 1-2 hours before drinking. Read more on RJ’s Wine Blog.

Next Page »