You have to look really hard through oceans of solid, unpretentious wine.
"The real story of Champagne is based on the quality of the nonvintage. "
Never one to mince words, W. Blake Gray visited South Africa this year and in this and a companion piece on his own site, explored the effect of wind on terroir and wondered how much progress has been made in South African wine post-apartheid.
There's really only one county in the U.S. where most Americans care about appellations: Napa. And to Napa Valley's credit, its appellations actually make more sense than almost anywhere else.