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Il Dimenticato: Piedmont’s New White Star Has a Mysterious and Forgotten Past

A thick tome, 132 years old, has survived to tell the story of Piedmont's grape-growing past. That is, if you can decipher the flowery penmanship and wade through the anachronistic turns of phrase. There, in a section on grape varieties in the book called “Wine Production and Oenology in the Province of Cuneo, 1879”, lies both the question and, perhaps, the answer to one of the region's great mysteries.
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2008 Billsboro Riesling

This wine marks the first time that winemaker Vinny Aliperti has decided to arrest fermentation instead of back-sweetening, and the results are outstanding. By picking slightly earlier than his colleagues, he...