The era of buying wine that is meant to age is gone like the era of intentionally oxidized white wines and undetected TCA in wineries. Undrinkability upon release is seen the same way by the marketplace—as a flaw. And that's not going away.
Two Central Coast vintners walked through a pristine-looking vineyard last fall—it had no cover crop, a usual sign of organic or biodynamic farming—explaining why they use herbicides.
I spend many meals in fine restaurants these days trying to play defense against every passing server topping off a glass I don't want refilled. Let my guard down for a second -- laugh at a friend's joke -- and suddenly I have a full glass I didn't want.
Henry Sidel knows how to market high-end beverages; he helped launch Belvedere and Chopin vodkas. He thought he had his eyes open to the market obstacles when he founded Joto Sake in New York in 2005 but that doesn't make those obstacles easier to overcome.