Having recently become leery of wines labeled “red blend,” I was thrilled to discover this one is classic Bordeaux blend, and not one of the overly-popular, overly-sweet “red blends” I’ve been stumbling into lately. This wine opens with aromas of earth and wild thyme, and an almost Mediterranean heat, so that the coolness of the liquid on the tongue is refreshing. Fruit appears on the palate too, but with restraint and grace. Chocolatey tannins emerge on the mid-palate and end-palate. To complete the balance, sparks of acidity ignite throughout, especially on the end-palate and in the longish finish — where the feeling of heat returns. A very good wine by Napa royalty Dennis Cakebread in collaboration with veteran Napa winemaker (and Washington native) Aryn Morell.

Note that this wine shows best in a red Bordeaux-style glass, so don’t stint on the glassware if you have it. Pairs well with everything from beef to pasta to vegetables.

High on the drinkability scale: 93 — BSE

WHO: Mullan Road Cellars
WHAT: 49% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34 % Merlot, 17% Cabernet Franc
WHERE: Columbia Valley, Washington State, US
HOW MUCH: $45 (media sample)

About The Author

Becky Sue Epstein
International Editor

Becky Sue Epstein is Palate Press’s International Editor. An experienced writer, editor, broadcaster, and consultant in the fields of wine, spirits, food, and travel, her work has appeared in many national and international publications including Intermezzo Magazine, Fine Wine & Liquor, Art & Antiques, Luxury Golf & Travel, Food + Wine, www.wine-pages.com and Wine Spectator. She began her career as a restaurant reviewer for the Los Angeles Times while working in film and television. Epstein is also the author of several books on wine, spirits, and food, including Champagne: A Global History; Brandy: A Global History, and Strong, Sweet and Dry: A Guide to Vermouth, Port, Sherry, Madeira, and Marsala.

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