Leo Hillinger is a producer in Burgenland boasting a sleek, new modern winemaking and tasting facility built with many sustainable and green design features. Vineyard management is all organic, with only biological interventions and pest management practices when required. I’ve enjoyed their Pinot Noir, which is herbaceous and has distinct earthy notes of red beets, similar to true Burgundy. This unoaked Zweigelt had a sharp, peppery nose, although I found the palate slightly too herbaceous—more green pepper than black pepper, in other words—and a bit tannic. It perhaps needs a little age to unwind, but nonetheless felt promising. Recommended with reservation. 86. Meg Houston Maker
WHO: Leo Hillinger
WHAT: Zweigelt
WHERE: Austria, Burgenland
WHEN: 2009
HOW MUCH: $18 (media sample)

 

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About The Author

Meg Houston Maker, MA, CSW, is a writer curious about nature, culture, food, wine, and place. She’s passionate about traditional food-ways, artisanal food and wine production, and the human connection to landscape. Meg is former Executive Editor of Palate Press and now serves as a regular columnist. Find her essays about communications, social information, and writing on megmaker.com. Find her essays about food, wine, and the pleasures of the table on Maker’s Table. Follow her on Twitter @megmaker.