Dolcetto’s reputation in some quarters as an easy-drinking, even insubstantial, wine is challenged here. This is an elegant example of what Dolcetto can be in the right hands. Perfumed, floral nose with black cherry and anise arising out of the glass. A complex mix that includes blackberry and a dusting of pepper washes across the palate. Finish is longer than I expected it to be, although still a bit tannic. Have with roast pork (porchetto) or a prosciutto-laden pizza. Highly recommended. GT

WHO: Azelia
WHAT: Dolcetto
WHERE: Piedmont, Italy
WHEN: 2010
HOW MUCH: est. $15 (media sample; East Coast importer says should be in market by June)

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About The Author

Gary Thomas
Wine Review Editor

Gary Thomas is also a longtime professional journalist, and former senior correspondent at the Voice of America. He was the wine columnist for the Austin American-Statesman in Austin, TX, and has freelanced wine articles for other publications, including the Wine Spectator. He has spent much of his long journalistic career working overseas, managing to cadge needed wine in the hardiest of circumstances and unlikliest of locales, even in places like Pakistan and Iran.

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