2010 Azelia Dolcetto d’Alba “Bricco Dell’Oriolo”

Dolcetto’s reputation in some quarters as an easy-drinking, even insubstantial, wine is challenged here. This is an elegant example of what Dolcetto can be in the right hands. Perfumed, floral nose with black cherry and anise arising out of the glass. A complex mix that includes blackberry and a dusting of pepper washes across the palate. Finish is longer than I expected it to be, although still a bit tannic. Have with roast pork (porchetto) or a prosciutto-laden pizza. Highly recommended. GT

WHO: Azelia
WHAT: Dolcetto
WHERE: Piedmont, Italy
WHEN: 2010
HOW MUCH: est. $15 (media sample; East Coast importer says should be in market by June)