Small, but not tiny, bubbles come off the glass in a relatively sparse mousse. Almond paste, hibiscus and lime peel make up the nose. On the palate, almonds and apples lead on the attack, followed by key lime emerging on the mid-palate. Apples linger on the finish, with a background of almond peel. Acidity is fine, but lacking the knife-edged sharpness of some great sparklers. This is good, and would pair well with any seafood you have to pry from the shell. Try it with a large plate of small oysters. Recommended. DH

WHO: Schramsberg Vineyards
WHAT: Chardonnay
WHERE: California, North Coast
WHEN: 2004
HOW MUCH: $32