The color shows medium concentration, ruby in the center with a garnet rim. The nose is impressive, balsamico with dried red currant fruits and bitter greens, tobacco, orange rind, tea leaves. The palate is good, with similar flavors, but does not quite meet the promise of the nose, with lower acids and tannins than expected. Arthur Black

WHO: Ocone
WHAT: Aglianico
WHERE: Italy, Campania, Taburno
WHEN: 2002
HOW MUCH: $16