This is a buyer’s wine from a portfolio of wines bought from different wineries and bottled under a proprietary label. The owner lost her sight but not her olfactory sense. This is unoaked, with blackberry on the nose but with slight vegetal asparagus aromas. As is sometimes encountered with some Malbecs, the fruit seems unyielding, like it is trying to open up but will only go so far and no farther. Bitter astringent finish.  To be fair, a little better the second day, but not so far as I can commend it. This wine has its fans, but I’m not one of them, I’m afraid. Not recommended. GT

WHO: Alex Elman
WHAT: Malbec
WHERE: Mendoza, Argentina
WHEN: 2009
HOW MUCH: $13 (Media sample)

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About The Author

Gary Thomas
Wine Review Editor

Gary Thomas is also a longtime professional journalist, and former senior correspondent at the Voice of America. He was the wine columnist for the Austin American-Statesman in Austin, TX, and has freelanced wine articles for other publications, including the Wine Spectator. He has spent much of his long journalistic career working overseas, managing to cadge needed wine in the hardiest of circumstances and unlikliest of locales, even in places like Pakistan and Iran.

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