When I first tried (allegedly) dry furmint wine in Hungary some years ago, I wasn’t that impressed. Some was sweet, some was oxidized and some was just plain bad. One or two were okay. But it seems winemakers have been practicing hard in this remote region. This wine has aromas of hay, straw, and a pleasant, yeasty, light fruit and floral suggestion, like flowers in a haymow. After a lighting attack of sweetness on the palate, the wine turns dry, and the body grows toward medium weight. Still, I think I detect a hint of oxidation in the character of the wine. It has a big finish, not bone dry, but then I don’t think this wine should be bone dry. It pairs nicely with light main courses such as chicken and lakefish; in my memories I drink it with sautéed native Zander fish. Recommended.

WHO: Royal Tokaji
WHAT: Furmint
WHERE: Tokaj, Hungary
WHEN: 2009
HOW MUCH: $17 (Media sample)

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About The Author

Becky Sue Epstein
International Editor

Becky Sue Epstein is Palate Press’s International Editor. An experienced writer, editor, broadcaster, and consultant in the fields of wine, spirits, food, and travel, her work has appeared in many national and international publications including Intermezzo Magazine, Fine Wine & Liquor, Art & Antiques, Luxury Golf & Travel, Food + Wine, www.wine-pages.com and Wine Spectator. She began her career as a restaurant reviewer for the Los Angeles Times while working in film and television. Epstein is also the author of several books on wine, spirits, and food, including Champagne: A Global History; Brandy: A Global History, and Strong, Sweet and Dry: A Guide to Vermouth, Port, Sherry, Madeira, and Marsala.

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