I have to thank the slow process of getting wines to the Société des alcools du Québec, literally the Québec Alcohol Corporation—the wine and spirits monopoly in Québec—and the little-known status of Finger Lakes wine in the province for the opportunity to taste an older vintage of riesling from Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard. The 2009 is the current release of this dry riesling produced at this winery on the western shore of Seneca Lake, but the 2006, still on sale at SAQ, shows just where these terrific rieslings, made with care and what is probably the most natural winemaking approach in the region, can go with a little time in the bottle. The complexity and range of aromas is just remarkable. A seductive nose of lime, apple, clover and acacia, with notes of hot stone and the slightest touch of petrol brought on by aging. Though it wouldn’t be out of place in the Mosel (I tasted it side by side with a S.A. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett riesling, and there were many points of comparison), it certainly has its own personality and definition. The mouth, sustained by still lively acid, has gained roundness and richness with age, moving from candied lemon to pine tree and beeswax, with exceptional length and a finish that just keeps going. Mature and extremely enjoyable now, it should remain so for many years to come. Highly Recommended.

WHO: Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard
WHAT: Riesling
WHERE: Finger Lakes, NY
WHEN: 2006
HOW MUCH: $17.50 (current release: 2009)

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