2009 Von Holt Suacci Vineyard Pinot Noir

Good color, good complexity, and it tastes good. What more can you ask for? The color is a bright, clear ruby. On the nose, a small hint of funk is a corona to dried cherries, sage, and a bit of brown sugar. The palate leads with the dried cherry and a bit of dried cranberry, all with a wet black dirt undertone. Sage shows up on the mid-palate along with some river rock minerality, then the most interesting thing happens—just at the end of the wine in your mouth, really in the transition between mid-palate and finish, there is a pronounced, but ephemeral, flash of flavor, like sticking your tongue in a plate of crushed black pepper with a little red pepper and just a few finely chopped bits of jalapeño added to the mix. Then it is gone, instantly. The finish is of moderate length. Drink with cedar planked salmon. Highly Recommended.

WHO: Von Holt
WHAT: Pinot Noir
WHERE: Sonoma Coast, California
WHEN: 2009
HOW MUCH: $35 (Media sample)