Probably unlike any wine you’ve ever had before, this is a bone-dry lightly sparkling red. The fruit is blackberry and mulberry, but without a hint of sweetness. More powerful overtones layered over the fruit are of chalk, tobacco, and ash. Big tannins and big acids are balanced. Though it sparkles, it is better at cellar temperature. Drink with a steak and some curious friends.

WHO: Cá de Noci
WHAT: Red Blend – Grasparossa (50%), Maestri (30%), Malbo Gentile (20%)
WHERE: Emilia-Romagna, Italy
WHEN: 2006
HOW MUCH: $20

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David Honig