There is a place in Northern Italy where all the producers are required to make only high quality wines, because there is such a small area for vineyards. This place is Carso, in the Friuli region. Wild and hostile, it forces farmers to exert their maximum effort if they want to work the land.

This is a region of great contrasts. The sea is not far away, and it creates a Mediterranean climate in coastal areas. Further inland, the climate  is  continental, with hot summers and freezing winters, swept by the gusty bora winds.

Carso is beautiful, but everywhere around you see only rocks, white rocks, sometimes big holes in the red earth (the infamous sinkholes) and … clear, pure air. However, only here, and in neighboring Slovenia, do we find a grape native to Slovenia: vitovska. (In Slovenia its name is vitovska grganja.) The grape’s history has been lost in the mists of time.  All we know is that its current characteristics are the result of centuries of adaptation and natural selection. Vitovska can withstand the cold bora wind, and summer heat that burns the rocks of Carso and its terracotta soils.

I like to call it the “grape of light.” The wine seems to reflect the brilliant sunlight on the white rocks of Carso, and its clean and crystalline atmosphere.

Vitovska’s bunches have a pyramidal shape, and its berries are quite green. The pulp is juicy, but the flavor is fairly neutral.

The young Vitovska wine is born of this land: dry, crisp, bright in the glass. However, it’s not necessary to drink Vitovska only when young and fresh, as is the case with many white wines. This is also a white wine that stands up to the challenge of time.

I first experienced this one evening at the home of a very famous Carso producer, an original character named Edi Kante. His winery is entirely carved into rock, up to 15 meters underground. There I tasted some vintage Vitovska wines from the 1990s and found them unexpectedly lively and exciting. Having lost the fruity character of youth, they had acquired maturity, and a mineral personality.

The next day, I went to a tasting of older vintages held at the winery of another nearby producer, Benjamin Zidarich, at the “Sea and Vitovska” event, in June of this year. The wines were vintages ranging from 1990 to 2004, produced by various wineries. In all the wines, I found the unmistakable character of this land: the sea salt, the dry wind, the sun’s heat.

Here my tasting notes for a few of the older vintage Vitovksa wines:

Az.Cotar, Vitovska 2004: from Slovenia, an organic Vitovska. Yellow with shades of orange. Unfiltered, fermented with only natural yeasts and aged in neutral oak barrels. Aromas of yellow fruit jello, citrus, candied orange peel and bitter herbs, chamomile, ripe yellow apple. Dry and very minerally on the palate, finishing with herbs.

Az.Milic, Vitovska 2002: one of the less-intense yellow wines here, with green hues. Aromas reminiscent of flint, stone shattered by the sparks of friction. In the mouth, however, juicy, with hints of herbs and a hint of white flowers.

Az.Edi Kante, Vitovska 1997: The colour is yellow with shades of green, the aromas of iodine and salt, stones and herbs, but also of white flowers. A superb “old” wine with length and elegance—and unexpected drinkability.


Elisabetta Tosi is a freelance wine journalist and wine blogger. She lives in Valpolicella, where the famous red wines Amarone, Ripasso, and Recioto are produced. Professionally, she serves as a web-consultant for wineries, and in her free time  writes books about Italian wines. She is also a contributor to Vino Pigro.

About The Author

Staff Writer

Elisabetta Tosi is a freelance wine journalist and wine blogger. She lives in Valpolicella, where the famous red wines Amarone, Ripasso and Recioto are produced. In her working time Elisabetta is a web-consultant for wineries, and in her free time she writes books about Italian wines. Elisabetta is a contributor to Vino Prigo.

  • Pingback: Tweets that mention Vitovska: Grape of Light : PALATE PRESS -- Topsy.com

  • http://passionatefoodie.blogspot.com RichardA

    I really was impressed with the 2005 Vodopivec Vitovska Classica. The Vodopivec winery is located in Carso mountain range and is owned and operated by two brothers, Paolo and Valter Vodopivec. The brothers began making wine in 1997 and they practice biodynamic agriculture. They have about ten acres and only grow Vitovska on that land, with very low yields. They produce only two wines, the Classica and the Solo MM4, grapes taken from a single parcel. The Classica was aged for about 20 months in an amphora made of Georgian clay. An intriguing and complex orange wine.

  • Pingback: Wine Kings Of The Carso | SipSwooshSpit

  • alfred beilin

    hi all the best have a gud new year
    a beilin

  • http://www.killerbeatmaker.com welsimiscus

    A software is defined as a group of interlinked programs that function together and allow you to do the work while saving time and energy both. The recent software program revolution has influenced several fields including music . In earlier times composition of a song was completed with number of musicians playing their instruments with correct tempo and timing while sitting in a recording theatre. The complete process requires a whole lot of time and energy to be put together and one can discover even a single mistake thus the over-all job is pretty tough.
    http://www.killerbeatmaker.com – beat making software

  • Pingback: A few highlights from our 2011 European wine travel experiences « Wine Travel Guides Blog

  • http://www.blogster.com/stewartrice38/oscars-for-bollywood-movies RimiAntemia

    Bollywood refers to a single with the film industries of India, exactly where several movies in Hindi are produced. The fame of producing the highest quantity of films in India goes to Bollywood. Amongst essentially the most well-known films in Bollywood, some are so rich in their content that they have competed with other foreign language films inside the category of Greatest Foreign language Film in Academy Awards.
    B4U Music

  • http://www.simplydressesshop.com/ OreviliRils

    Then, Malaysia consistently achieved a lot more than 7% GDP growth along with low inflation inside the 1980s along with the 1990s. Today, Malaysia is home to one of several world’s largest computer hard disk manufacturing sites. The Asian Financial Crisis hit within the fall of 1997 and delivered a surprise to Malaysia’s economy. Foreign direct investment fell sharply and, as capital flowed out of the country, price of the ringgit dropped from 2. A National Economic Action Council was then formed to take care of the monetary crisis. Bank Negara, the nation’s central bank imposed capital controls and pegged the Malaysian ringgit at 3.

    Education – Before we have into some language lesson, I’d like to let you know how the Malaysian education product is organized. Why do different children go to various kinds of school At here, you’d not surprised if I tell you that education and learning system could be very much in race too. The first may be the SRK, or Sekolah Rendah Kebangsaan, that are government run schools. Or, if your parents are Chinese or Indian, they might choose to deliver you to the 2nd type of school called SJK, or Sekolah Jenis Kebangsaan. Here, you may be using either Mandarin or Tamil, counting on which school you visit. If you’re a lady, you may wear a dark blue pinafore, coupled that has a white shirt, or dark blue and white baju kurung, or Malay traditional costume.

    Where is the NLP market now You should purchase online and distance courses on e – Bay. Sales and seduction experts offering to share their strategies of mind power and influence. NLP diluted through absorption into other fields such as coaching and in some cases DHE, which Bandler created himself. Some would say it was an incredible evolution on the body of information of NLP. Others would say it had been a way to get throughout the trademark and IP dispute that further harmed NLP’s credibility. Search to get a ‘NLP’ job on a significant recruitment website and out of 94,130 vacancies, 9 mention NLP.

    Household Staff – Household staffs often must wear formal office uniforms a number of occasions. While it’s possible you’ll not require your domestic helpers to put formal attire every single day, you may want them to decorate more appropriately for business dinners, parties, or events held in your house. During these events, workers will need to dress more formally since your guests can be wearing formal clothing. If you want your employees to stand out from the group, appear intelligent enough to manage your client’s needs, and communicate well with your customers, make sure they may be wearing the right type of uniform. It doesn’t matter in the event you’re getting or sending a big “Thank you,” food gift baskets are topping your food choice gift list for 2012 as the ideal way of bringing a delighted smile to everyone’s face. One might even get a celebration started with a food gift basket which can be why it’s becoming such a popular gift choice.

    Cameo appearances Don Knotts, Jack Benny, Jerry Lewis, Norman Fell, Buster Keaton, Three Stooges and many, much more stars from those years. In the Mad, Mad, Mad World movie the treasure hunters traveled on early 1960s cars, airplane, taxi, bicycle plus a tow truck. Those Magnificent Men In Their Flying Machines – 1965Set in 1910, Lord Rawnsley offers 10 pounds to very first pilot to reach Paris From London, which was completed in 20 hours and eleven minutes. Remember, the Wright Brothers discovered their airplane up in 1903, hence the zany contraptions keep reading to learn race that truly flew were quite ridiculous. Starring James Fox, Sarah Miles, Stuart Whitman, Alberto Sordi, Robert Morley with Red Skelton and Benny Hill. Cannonball Run – 1981This x-country outlaw road race movie is really based on accurate annual event called ‘Cannonball Baker Sea To Shining Sea Memorial Trophy Dash’ the particular 1970s.