This wine marks the first time that winemaker Vinny Aliperti has decided to arrest fermentation instead of back-sweetening, and the results are outstanding. By picking slightly earlier than his colleagues, he allowed the grapes to maintain a crackling natural acidity. By arresting the fermentation at 2.5% RS, he achieved a balance for the acid. The end result is a wine almost ostentatious in its flavors with a spine of acid that sends lightning bolts through the mouth. The classic Seneca Lake fennel is right there, along with lime peel, honey, and the rain-on-rocks character that comes in this region. This is a big step up for a producer on the rise, and it won the title of New York Cork Report White Wine of the Year, 2009. 
 
WHO: Billsboro
WHAT: Riesling
WHERE: Seneca Lake, Finger Lakes, New York
WHEN: 2008
HOW MUCH: $15

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About The Author

Evan Dawson
Staff Writer

Evan Dawson is the author of Summer in a Glass: The Coming of Age of Winemaking in the Finger Lakes. It won the 2012 Roederer International Wine Book of the Year. Outside of Palate Press, his wine writing has been published in Wine Spectator, Tasting Panel Magazine, and the New York Cork Report, for which he serves as Managing Editor. He hosts The Connection on WXXI radio, the NPR affiliate in western New York, where he focuses on community affairs. He is a middling but enthusiastic cook.