This is an interesting wine, a blend of the Burgundian and the New World. The nose offers up cherries surrounded by wafting odors of mushrooms and scorched stone. The palate is a similar blend of red fruit, tart cherries and cranberry, with mushrooms not washed quite clean of black earth, river rocks charred with a torch until they crack, and a hint of smoked meat. Think Volnay in a forest fire. Drink with smoked duck.

WHO: Domaine Coteau
WHAT: Pinot Noir
WHERE: Eola-Amity Hills, Willamette Valley, Oregon
WHEN: 2007
HOW MUCH: $22

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