Palate Press Wine of the Week: 2008 Olson Ogden Pinot Noir, Manchester Ridge

Gorgeous translucent ruby color with clear edges, pure Pinot Noir, with no tell-tale purple edges hinting at Syrah in the mix. When first opened it is a full plate of heavily smoked meat, like slow-smoked pork with a perfect pink ring. After a couple of hours of decanting, though, the red fruit comes through with nuances of tiny wild strawberries, Michigan cherries, and some cranberries. It is all shot through with a healthy dose of smoke (more mesquite than hickory), and a bit of the aforementioned BBQ pork, but far milder than when first opened. The finish is long. This is very good wine and a terrific bargain. Good luck finding it, though. Only 155 cases were made.

WHO: Olson Ogden
WHAT: Pinot Noir
DESIGNATION: Manchester Ridge Vineyard
WHERE: Mendocino, California
WHEN: 2008
HOW MUCH: $38 (Media sample)