This under $30 Syrah was probably not intended to sleep in the cellar until 2010, but it awakened with surprising maturity and complexity. A wine described as “lavishly oaked” two or three years ago is now balanced, aromatic, and flat-out savory. Olives, hickory smoked bacon, black pepper, and sage are all lightly brushed with soy sauce for a savory northern Rhone doppelganger.

WHO: Jeriko Estate & Winery
WHAT: Syrah
WHERE: Mendocino, Californiao
WHEN: 2003
HOW MUCH: $26

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David Honig
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