The year 2005 is considered by most the best year in decades, one in which the great wines are perfect, the good wines are great, and the average wines are good. If this very moderately priced bottle is any indication, they are right.

This is a terrific early drinker from a vintage with so many wines worthy of long-term cellaring. There is very little evidence of wood, as the wine maker obviously decided to let the grapes speak for themselves. Blackberries and blackcurrants have a background of tobacco, all wrapped gently in leather from smooth tannins. The finish was long, the flavor lingering for half a minute or more.

WHO: Chateau Moulin de Curat
WHAT: Merlot (60%) Cabernet Franc (35%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (5%)
WHEN: 2005
WHERE: France, Bordeaux, Libournais
HOW MUCH: $23.98


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David Honig